Hvar, Croatia

The Croatian sun melted into the horizon, casting a warm glow on the honey colored stones of the castle high above. The Hvar harbor soon filled with mega yachts that could eclipse the sun, returning with precious cargoes of  beautiful people toasting to another day on the pristine Adriatic. Surrounded by near silent fishing villages, Hvar is a concentrated Croatian celebration of the freedom, beauty, and ease of life at sea. As music bled from every open door and local swimmers splashed un-phased till very last light, it seems in Hvar, night or day, you’re here to play. 

I stayed on a boat with TYW while here and was only here for a couple days, but I did love Hvar so. Hvar is a fairytale, a postcard, an oil painting of Europeans summers at their zenith. Restaurants and beach clubs dot the coves and coasts of the island providing endless options for fresh seafood and breezy outdoor seating. Days are warm, slow, and the only breach of peace is lapping of clear turquoise waters. Nights are endlessly romantic as people of every age dance, laugh, and live under the moon. The sleek yachts are juxtaposed next to the town piazza, which holds the Europe's oldest municipal theatre and a Benedictine convent. It’s history seems unfathomable, so long and rich, yet the energy is so present, lively, and affecting. Croatia has taken a long and deep history of invasion and rendered a feast of history, and convergence of culture and celebration.  It is a secret I am happy to be in on. 

We arrived to Hvar at sunset our first night, and  decided on a quick slice of pizza, but I remain intrigued by the many hidden cafés and charming hole-in-the-wall restaurants. We followed the soft thump of music over towards the seaside fête of Hula Hula Bar. Hula Hula brings the Pacific to the Adriatic, with wooden recliners, umbrellas, and tiki cocktails served in neon carafes. At Hula Hula, champagne corks pop and DJs spin soulful music that wafts in the warm breeze towards cinematic views of the smoldering sun. The fresh sea air pulses with an impossible energy, and here paradise seems to transcend the word, and is no longer a place, but a feeling, no longer a noun but a verb.

Our first morning in Hvar we were able to do a yoga class that The Yacht Week provided (unending thanks for that one TYW!), under the cypress trees near Laganinis beach club. If there is one place I wish I spent more time, it is Laganinis. Laganini translates to “take it easy” in Croatian, and the ease and vibe of the beach club make unwinding inevitable. Small boats can pull up directly to the beach club, carefully dodging swimmers in the pristine cove. We spent a leisurely lunch here, feasting on Macaroni with Truffles and Shrimps and sipping Mojitos. When I return to Hvar, I will be sure to try the nearby Zori Restaurant, a revered eatery run by brother and sister whose family has lived on Hvar for 300 years.   

A note on Croatian Seafood: It is a must! Croatia only joined the EU in 2013, meaning the waters here have yet to be overrun by large scale fisheries. In the Adriatic, there is said to be around 400 varieties of edible sea creatures, including sea bass, tuna, a variety of shellfish, and the local delicacy, squid.  Many restaurants have close relationship with local fishermen, that will transport the catch of the day right to the kitchen. Many restaurants revolve around these fresh catches, and are incredibly creative in their preparations. My entire time of seafood snacking in Croatia, I truly felt the seafood everyday was fresh and everyday was different. 

We capped the weekend off at quite possibly the coolest beach club in the world, Carpe Diem. Carpe Diem requires a 10 minute water taxi from Hvar Town to arrive, and nothing has ever seemed so exclusive. Tucked away on a jagged neighboring island and covered in a pine forest, is an oasis.  Shaded by a thick veil of trees, sunlight peaks through, the breeze blows, and the climate perfect for a dance. Many dances in fact, as when we arrived around sunset time the place was filled to the brim with the swanky and the superfly, dancing on the floor, couches, and tables to the best DJ mix I have ever heard (seriously, not even Shazamable!). Carpe Diem “closes” at 7PM and reopens at 12:30AM and the party goes till sunrise. They do this to encourage you to return back to Hvar town and get a bite and explore. We did exactly this; we ate in the piazza, and hit up a lil alley of bars, filled with people pouring out of Kiva Bar, the most popular bar in town. They may or may not have a drink that require you to put on a helmet. I may or may not have tried this. 

Hvar is entirely charming, beautiful, and contagious in its carefree energy. By sun or stars Hvar is to be celebrated, enjoyed, indulgently devoured. It is a feast for the living, and a playground for immaculate yet unrestrained superstars of the world. Hvar may be flashy, yet the fresh fish and crystal waters are for all, and the slow pace of the island captivating without discrimination. In Hvar, anyone and everyone can dance, play, revel under the sun, and wonder how such a small corner of the world can be so intoxicating.     

THE JAM

DIGS

We stayed on a boat through The Yacht Week.
Splurge on Adriana Hvar Spa Hotel!

EXPERIENCE
- Castle Hike
- Benedictine Convent and Cathedral
- Scooter Ride around the island to Stari Grad
- Boat to Blue Caves

FEAST

Palmizana: Laganinis, Zori Restaurant
Hvar Town: Passarola Giaxa (Dalmatian and Mediterranean cuisine), Macondo, Fig Cafe (local figs), Black Pepper (romantic stairway), Dalmatino  Bars + Beach Clubs: Hula Hula Bar, Carpe Diem, Bonj 'les bains', Ka’lavanda, Top Bar at Hotel Adriana

LOCAL
Deliciae Mediterraneae, the island's oldest shop!
Eats: Fish! “Everyday fresh, everyday different”, traditional fish stew, Squid Ink Risotto
Drinks: Local Wines