For longer than the western world can remember, there have been Maharajas and Maharanis ruling India in splendid celebration and ceremonial furor. Age after age of vast kingdoms ruled from colorful palaces, developing their own science, medicine and philosophy, and warring for Gods, for love, and for land. The history of India is so rich and immense, visualising it is much like a watching Bollywood movie; a dizzying display of passion, pride, and colorful celebration. Five hundred years after the golden age of Indian royalty, Josh and I have arrived at the steps of the Neemrana Fort Palace, and the sun is rising. The gardens of the grounds are quiet and misty, alluding to a haunting sort of peace that I’m sure only comes with 500 years of proud and stoic existence. At the Neemrana Fort Palace time doesn’t stop, but rather dances with you, twirling you in and out of a 15th century Indian fantasy. The Neemrana Fort Palace is a perfect getaway for maharanis and maharajas (kings + queens) alike, and I pray to many gods that I return here in another life.

We arrived to New Delhi at 4AM, met our prearranged driver, and drove 2 hours southwest towards Rajasthan to arrive at the Neemrana Fort Palace, just as a blood red sun was rising from behind a thick layer of smog. Delhi was having a smog crisis while we arrived, so we decided to get out of town for a couple of days. Little did we know we had discovered a marvelous heritage hotel and a highlight of our time in India.

The staff was incredibly welcoming, and was able to set us up in a room before ours was available, because it was so early. After some rest we attended the palace’s daily complementary morning yoga. Nowhere else in India did I find such a beautiful and authentic yogic experience. I am very grateful for that yoga practice, and the chants our instructor demonstrated for us both mornings. We followed with the palace breakfast buffet, taking in all the views over fresh chai and spotting monkeys out the panoramic window.

We spent the entire afternoon exploring the hotel, we felt like the goonies and secret treasure certain. The hotel is a 14-tiered property, with secret pathways that wrap around 72 separate true to their time rooms or Mahals (royal living quarters). The pathways may not truly be secret, but with gardens of jasmine appearing at the end of narrow stairways, and brilliant viewpoints springing up around any corner, they certainly are special. The steep and slim pathways do require a level of fitness, but exploring the palace was half the fun. It was like an interactive museum, all we were missing was royal attire! We climbed all 14 tiers, exploring the gardens, and the two pools. Hanging flowers covered courtyards at every turn, yet no two alike. We listened to an audio guide that accompanied the hotel that informed us of the different mahals and which person of court would live their. We even found a photo of our mahal before restoration, which made it all the more real. The history buff in me was on the moon, a hotel that needs its own audio guide? Sign me up!

After our archaeological escapade, we attended a complementary tea, sipping in a private tea room watching the neon red of the Indian sun diffuse behind the smog. We felt like royalty, and I can see why this palace is a popular couples getaway and wedding venue for local Indians. While walking to dinner we stumbled upon a gorgeous patio near our room we hadn’t noticed before, and soaked in the beauty of the palace lights twinkling in the night. Filled to the brim with traditional Indian food, we proceeded to the charming and elegant sitar performance held in a courtyard. This performance was another huge highlight of our trip, as it can be hard to find such intimate and authentic performances. We were very jetlagged and couldn't sleep, but the hotel’s virtuous commitment to no TVs, left us chatting and laughing until dreams of the Taj Mahal took us both.

We woke the next morning to Yoga and breakfast bright and early, excited to have seen our palace hotel, but ready to see the world. The options for activity in Neemrana include: India’s first zipline located at the Fort Palace, and a camel ride to a nearby bawadi (step well). We opted for a leisurely walk to the bawadi, that cut through some shady trees to a hot and dusty street, and the walk was pretty short. The step well concept is pretty distinct to India, and I have always wanted to see one. The bawadi of Neemrana was built in the 1700s by the royal family of Neemrana to aide the local village during a dire famine. Villagers spent the first 5 years digging 9 stories deep, and the last 4 years building the 2nd biggest bawadi in all of India. Here we also met some great and incredibly dusty kids who hounded us for money, so it was nice to get those preliminary experiences out early.

We started to walk back to the palace, and just like Bollywood, a dashing Indian man on a shiny motorcycle with a thick mustache pulled up to a house ahead of us and stopped. We walked up, and he introduced himself as Baloo. Baloo is an incredible person (and friend), and shared some history of Neemrana with us as well as informing us that the shady area we were standing in is actually a farm for the Palace, and that most of the food is local, good to know! He offered to show us the town and to come see his shop. We followed to his storefront very close by, and sipped chai and shopped. Josh bought a Ganesha ring, and I bought a mirror. These ended up being the best souvys of the trip, and day one at that. Baloo told us that 10% of our purchase goes to the Neemrana public school, just next door. He offered to take us to the school, and what happened next was magic.

We crawled through a wooden half door into a big cement courtyard buzzing with kids running, laughing, pulling at each others ratty shirts. They all stopped and started at us, mind you Josh is 6’5’’ and blonde as can be. They swarmed us, determined to touch some skin, their bright smiles gleaming from smooth and dirty faces. We walked to the girls wing first and then the boys, stopping to take pictures with/of the kids and to meet some of their teachers and cooks. Baloo informed us that most kids had parents who would force them to work if they were home, but at school they can learn and engage with others. The kids were beautiful, charming, and had so much style! This was a deeply touching experience, and I will remember those children for the rest of my life. Buzzing with gratitude we couldn't help but smile our entire drive back to New Delhi. The romance, history, and passion of the Neemrana Fort Palace make it an incredibly immersive experience, and a trip I could revisit in many lifetimes.

धन्यवाद Neemrana!

THE Jam

DIGS
The Neemrana Fort Palace

EXPERIENCE
India’s 2nd oldest stepwell, camel ride there optional. Baloo’s Store across from the town public school, a percentage of his profits goes to the school. You can also visit the school with him, if you are prepared for a heart melt. Exploring the Fort Palace itself! Josh and I spent endless hours wandering the palace and finding secret rooms and views! For Palace Zipline.

FEAST
Every meal at the Palace was incredible, with authentic indian cuisine and local drinks next sweeping views from the dining hall

LOCAL
Shop Baloo’s Store! The Neemrana public school is run on donations, as many of the village kids would be forced to stay home and work the farms without its existence. Baloo and the efforts of other townspeople are what keeps this kids in school together <3